MOZA R9 iRacing Settings — The Complete FFB Guide (2026)

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These aren't settings copied from a forum thread. This is the exact force-feedback profile I run on my own MOZA R9 in iRacing — tuned over hundreds of laps in the BMW M4 GT4 and saved in Pit House as a preset. Every value below is on my rig right now.

The R9 is a 9 N·m direct drive wheelbase, and out of the box it ships with defaults that feel notchy and heavy in iRacing. Two things fix that: getting the Pit House sliders right, and understanding that iRacing ignores half of them — so you stop chasing feel in menus that do nothing.

Quick answer: the full settings table

If you just want the values, here they are. MOZA Pit House (I'm on 1.3.8.x), Basic Force Effects column:

Then in iRacing → Options → Force Feedback:

Why iRacing ignores the Game Force Effects sliders

Scroll down the right-hand column in Pit House (the window opens short — the block is below the fold) and you'll find Game Force Effects: Game Spring, Game Damping, Game Inertia, Game Friction. Mine sit at 100 / 50 / 50 / 50.

Here's the thing: iRacing sends one signal — direct torque. It doesn't ask your wheelbase to render spring, damper, friction or inertia effects the way Assetto Corsa, ACC or Le Mans Ultimate do. So those four sliders effectively do nothing in iRacing. They only matter when I switch to LMU.

This is why the Natural (Basic) effects matter so much for iRacing: they're applied by the base itself, on top of whatever the sim sends. Natural Friction 35% is what gives the R9 that connected, weighty feel iRacing's raw signal doesn't provide on its own. Natural Damping 20% stops the wheel oscillating when you catch a slide.

Steering Wheel Inertia — match it to your rim

Also below the fold in the middle column: Steering Wheel Inertia. Mine is set to 2800, selected via the rim-preset buttons (I run a CS-style round rim). This setting compensates for the physical mass of the wheel you've bolted on — a heavy round leather rim needs a different value than a light formula rim.

Use the preset button that matches your MOZA rim and leave it alone. If you change rims, change the preset — it makes a bigger difference to initial turn-in feel than most of the sliders people obsess over.

How it should feel when it's right

• Self-aligning torque builds smoothly with cornering load — no notchiness through the center.
• You feel the rear go light before you see it. In the M4 GT4, kerb strikes and rear slip come through as texture, not violence.
• No clipping on max-load corners. If the FFB meter (F meter in the black box) hits red on every apex, your Strength number is too aggressive — re-run Auto.
• The wheel doesn't fight you on straights — that's the speed-dependent damping doing its job above 80 km/h.

Common mistakes with the R9 in iRacing

1. Adding Min Force on a direct drive base

Min Force exists to overcome the dead zone of cheap gear-driven wheels. The R9 has essentially no dead zone — adding Min Force just makes the center feel artificial and jumpy. Leave it at 0%.

2. Chasing strength instead of detail

Running Strength so high the base clips on every corner means you're throwing away the information you paid for. A direct drive base at 60–70% of its ceiling with zero clipping beats one at 100% that saturates constantly. Let Auto set it.

3. Tuning in the garage

FFB is car- and track-dependent in iRacing. The Auto value for the M4 GT4 at the Nürburgring will differ from an oval car at Talladega. Re-run Auto when you change cars — it takes ten seconds.

4. Doubling damping in two places

If you run Natural Damping in Pit House and iRacing's in-sim Damping slider, they stack, and the wheel turns to mud. Pick one layer — I keep damping on the base (20%) and iRacing at 0%.

FAQ